The Tai Yuan from Chiangsan
Around 200 years ago, in the time of King Rama I, a migration of Tai Yuan from the north of Thailand, and particularly Chiang Saen City, settled in the Saraburi province.
As a result the Tai Yuan Native community in Amphur Saohai, Saraburi Province has language and traditions similar to people of northern Thailand. Tai Yuan communities are located in almost every Amphur (or district) in Saraburi Province.
The Tai Yuan originally moved to Amphur Saohai when King Rama I (1804) gave responsibility to Khommuen Thepharak and Phraya Yomaraj to chase the Burmese army out of Chiang Saen in the north. Due to the strategic location of Chiang Saen on the border with Laos and Burma and the use of the city to resupply Burmese troops, the city was burned to the ground following the ousting of the Burmese and the residents resettled.
The inhabitants, some 23,000 people were divided into 5 groups and resettled in Chiangmai, Lumpang, Nan, Vientiane Saraburi and Rachaburi. Other groups also moved to Bangkok and Poo Chaofah.
The influence of the Tai Yuan can also be seen in Banmi district in Lopburi Province, Srithep district in Petchabun Province, Pakchong and Sique district in Nakonratchasrima Province, and Wangnamyen district in Srakaew Province.
One of the most relaxing and enlightening trips in Saraburi for visitors is to Sail along Pasak River with an experienced guide relating the many stories and historic anecdotes of the region, tradition is still strong here and the locals live ancient culture every day.
You may like to see a local traditional performance under the stars, while having a dinner with the philosopher Ajarn Trongchai Wannakul at the local Tai Yuan Cultural Centre, in Amphur Saohai, Saraburi Province. These are impressive and unforgettable shows and Mr Wannakul is an interesting and vivid speaker who is himself a direct descendent of the people of the Lanna period.
Evidence of the Tai Yuan lifestyle, traditions and clothing of Tai Yuan can be seen in the wall painting at Wat Samuhapradittharam in Amphur Saohai. It illustrates the traditional Buddhist ceremony of making merit and virtue called “Tamboon Slaghapat”, Tai Yuan style of dress and the remarkable and unique lifestyle are illustrated in the mural.
Tai Yuan in Saraburi
According to the legend of Singhonawat, the son of Thao Thewakal, who governed Unan city, brought the people to settle around the low-lying area of the southern Khong River, which is Present day Chiang Rai and Chiang Saen. It was named Yonok Nakorn or Yonoknaka Nakorn.
Poo Chaofah, one of Yuan leaders at that time lead his people to settle at Ban Chaofah; now a village in Sao Hai district, where a Chaofah shrine is located.
During the Songkran Festival, villagers bathe in the temple and implore the spirit of Poo Chaofah to enable them to foresee the future. Nhan Tah who was a brother of Poo Chaofah moved his people to settle at Ban Sibtah; present Ban Suandokmai.
It has been said that Nhan Tah was very good at magic and fighting and he participated in cutting the Takien tree at Ban Sanpa-nhae to make a sacred pole for the construction of Bangkok. After being rejected the pole was floated back up the river where it was lost. The legend has it the the sacred pole was heard to cry from the river bottom and was named “Sao Rang Hai” (Crying Pillar). This was the origin of the name of Amphur Saohai. Now the Takien Pole was rescued from the river bottom in 1957 and is now installed at Wat Soong, Amphur Saohai, Saraburi province.
Tai Yuan Language and Writing
The Tai Yuan have their own unique speaking and written language. When they moved to Saraburi, the event was recorded on a long scroll made of wood-pulp. The stories recorded in similar books foretold events, described herbal therapy and magic. Stories recorded on palm leaves would be used for a Buddhist Sermon or Bible.
The Tai Yuan liked to give a Buddhist Bible with the belief that they will gain merit. Among these are Wetsundorn Jataka and the Phra Tripitaka which were copied from the original from the north. The Tai Yuan also have a singing performance called “Joy” which might use one or two voices in counter parts. "Joying" would be performed without instrumentation, and the lyrics would relate to Jataka tales, teachings, history or love stories.
The murals from Wat Chantornburi at Amphur Saohai, which were painted before the period of King Rama III and Wat Samuhapradittharam at Amphur Saohai, illustrate the dress and life style of the Tai Yuan.
Architecture
The Tai Yuan house has a unique style called Ruan Chiang Saen or Ruan Kalae. Using carved crossed beams with a gabled roof, the upstairs is larger than the base giving it the name “big breasts, slender waisted house” (Ruan Oke To Eaw Kod). When the people of Chiang Saen moved to Saraburi, they brought the construction style with them. Some Kalae are illustrated in murals at Wat Samuhapradittharam.
The Tai Yuan Local Culture Centre.
See the traditional woven cloth of Tai Yuan and learn more about the history. For group tours please contact the centre in advance for the Khun Toke Dinner and traditional Lanna style performance around the river bank at the Tai Yuan Local Culture Centre. Contact Ajarn Songchai Wannakul, Tel 0-36391100 or Kamnan Somjitr (District governor), Tel. 0-9904-4564
Bann Khao Kaew: The Old Thai Style house with a high cellar and 5 houses interconnected, has been around for 80-100 years. Bann
KhaoKaew is surrounded by shade trees and the aroma from the Thai flowers in its gardens attract many different species of native birds who sing to each other through the day. The owner; Ajarn Songchai Wanakul, is an original descendent of the Tai Yuan people and is a chief of the Tai Yuan Association of Saraburi.
He has an extensive collection of ancient items including many kinds of old local tools and utensils. Visitors who are interested in the local culture and architecture of the Tai Yuan should contact him in advance to arrange a tour.
Of particular interest:
Traditional tools, there are a lot of traditional tools including different kinds of carts drawn by buffalo and cows and decorative carts for monks as well as cradles and tools for fishing. Upstairs, there are old watches, animal horns, Thai books and the wooden implements used for traditional Thai massage. There are also interwoven bamboo baskets and ancient weapons such as pike, lance, javelin, sword, knives and guns. The kitchen contains cooking utensils and interwoven bamboo tools such as fish traps, slings, and baskets.
Woven cloth, by the Tai Yuan, some are up to a hundred years old and are classified as:
Pha Sin (Traditional skirt); there are 7 kinds of Pha Sin such as Sin Mook, Sin Meng Lai Dang, Sin Sam Laew, Sin Kai, Sin Chao Nhua. Sin Karn Koh Kwai, and Sin Teen Chok.
Yarm (cloth bag with a shoulder strap) Yarm Keb, Yarm Mook, Yarm Dum Darn Kep Pard and Pur Bag (black bag), used to take implements to the rice fields.
Morn Khit or Morn Nha It (Pillow): a rectangular pillow with 6 or 9 curls. The Tai Yuan pillow has stripe on both the head and tail side, which differs from the North Eastern pillow which has one stripe in the middle.
Additionally, there are other types of traditional cloths with beautiful woven designs, such as shawls and the cloths used during the monks ordination ceremonies. Behind the main house, there is a smaller house with a pond for guests arrivals.
The Tai Yuan Local Culture Centre of Saraburi is a traditional Thai house built by the Pasak River and opposite to Bann Khao Kaew. Here you can see many kinds of boats, fishing tools, and ancient utensils on display.
Tai Yuan woven cloth in Sao hai is the famous local handicraft of Saraburi Province and has a beautiful and unique design. Local Tai Yuan women like to weave cloth when they have free time from the farming chores. Besides weaving for themselves, they also sell this cloth. After changes in clothmaking technology, handwoven cloth went out of date, but it is now being made again in the traditional style with support from the Ministry of the Interior and Provincial Industry. A womens weaving group was setup in Ton Tan District. They have around 30 members and visitors can see the weavers in action and buy beautiful woven cloth the same day it was made.
Getting There :
From Saraburi city via Pichaironnarong Songkram Rd.(road no.3041) after 2km turn right at the junction and continue, you will come to the bridge over the Pasak river, after about 1 km turn left at Ban Pakbang junction. Continue for 1 km to the Tai Yuan Local Culture Centre of Saraburi.
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